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Hacking a Reef Brite


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  1. #11
    evilc66 - Reefkeeper CR Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimsflies View Post
    I'm not sure what a driver looks like...but all I see are what looks like the circuit board with leds mounted to it and glued to the metal reflector. Do all LEDs require a driver?

    Where is a good place to get the dimmable buck puck? I assume I could use one of the existing 12v power adaptors to power it? Then it has a lead that would plug into the variable output connection on the apex?
    You may be able to use the existing power supplies, providing they are constant voltage (most likely are). Can you read off the details on the power supply?

    And yes, all LEDs require a driver. Ideally, they need to be kept at a constant current, and have the voltage adjusted based on the needs of the LED. True constant current LED drivers do exactly this. It makes sure that the LEDs have a long life (provided that temperatures are kept in check).

    Quote Originally Posted by XSiVE View Post
    http://ledsupply.com/03023-d-e-500.php

    The buckpuck accepts 0-5v as a dimming source, but it's inverted, so 0v=full blast, 5v=off, you would have to program around that little speedbump with the apex by essentially setting it up backward
    True, but you need to be careful. The Buckpuck won't like a full 10v going to the input pin. This is easy to fix though. Just put a pair of 100K resistors in series across the 1-10v output channel of the Apex, and conect the CTRL line of the Buckpuck to the point between the two resistors. This is a basic voltage divider, and will halve the voltage to a more Buckpuck friendly 5v.

  2. #12
    jimsflies - Reefkeeper
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    Well there must be more (i.e., a driver) mounted with those leds inside the reefbrite. I probably just don't know what I am looking at. Assuming this is the case will the buckpuck still work?

  3. #13
    XSiVE - Reefkeeper
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    Quote Originally Posted by evilc66 View Post
    True, but you need to be careful. The Buckpuck won't like a full 10v going to the input pin. This is easy to fix though. Just put a pair of 100K resistors in series across the 1-10v output channel of the Apex, and conect the CTRL line of the Buckpuck to the point between the two resistors. This is a basic voltage divider, and will halve the voltage to a more Buckpuck friendly 5v.
    Thanks Clive, I knew there was a safer way to do it! Though he'd still need to do a reverse ramp from the apex, Im not sure how well it can accomplish that but it's worth a shot.

  4. #14
    evilc66 - Reefkeeper CR Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimsflies View Post
    Well there must be more (i.e., a driver) mounted with those leds inside the reefbrite. I probably just don't know what I am looking at. Assuming this is the case will the buckpuck still work?
    Not having taken one of those particular units apart, I can't say for sure, but it shouldn't be hard to make a Buckpuck work. Care to take a few shots of the unit disassembled? I should be able to identify all the parts easily then.

    Quote Originally Posted by XSiVE View Post
    Thanks Clive, I knew there was a safer way to do it! Though he'd still need to do a reverse ramp from the apex, Im not sure how well it can accomplish that but it's worth a shot.
    Yeah, I'm not sure on the programming on the Apex. Easiest way is to just reverse the on and off times. That's how we do it with the Reefkeepers. Say you want the lights to come on at 10am and off at 8pm, with an hour ramp. Set the on time to 7pm, and the off time to 9am. Sounds odd, but it works pretty well.
    Last edited by evilc66; 08-31-2010 at 02:36 PM.

  5. #15
    jimsflies - Reefkeeper
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    I'll see what I can get for pics. The unit doesn't come apart very easily as the reflector is siliconed to the led which is glued to the housing/heat sink.

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