Lighting Dilema

[dakar]

I sure hope UofODuck isn't isinuating there is such a thing as too much light for a tank.

If anyone within 100 yards is not at least temporarily blinded for an hour or more when you crack the canopy open with the halides powered up.... you need more power :D

Serously, take into consideration the ambient air temp and how much heat you can dissipate from the lighting... no sense setting up a reef if you are going to slow cook it.

[UofODuck]

My interests are for what is best for my corals......not blinding people by showing them how big my thing is!.....(referring to my lights of course!)

I would like to buy a setup where I don't have to end up adding a chiller. I do have plans to hang the light canopy and remove my glass lid. I've read that having an open air tank has its advantages (equalizing pressure). Not sure if any of you have heard the same. Makes sense though.....no canopy in the tropics!

Thanks for the help.....If I had not stumbled apon this site, I would have continued to take it from the LFS.

[jerryc]

The 2*175 are 2*250 ether will work i have the 175 on a 55 and i can tall you
it is not overkill after i get the 75 set up ill add a 250 in the center to make
up the difference.

[UofODuck]

Sounds like the Aqumedic is right then. Things all, I would have been lost without your help.

[davejnz]

Dave, I looked at your suggestions and it looks good. How does it stack up to the aqua medic ocean MH/T5 combo? My main concern is not going overboard. I have come across many suggestions that more is better, but I think sometime people go overkill....which is not good. Maybe the 2x150wMH(HQI) with 2x54T5 is the way to go?

The fixture has its advantages over the DIY retros because its plug-n-play and it also has DE halides instead of the mogul based that the retros are.(SE can be just as effective though IMO)My biggest complaint about fixtures is that they are a contained unit that use their own brands of ballasts(expensive to replace and often not the best quality,especially the T5 ballast).There is also no room for improvement/upgrade with a fixture.
The DIY retros are cheaper,can provide equal PAR,you have the choice of what type of reflector to use for the MH's and the T5's as well as the ability to manipulate them to maximize spread for your specific tank.They are run off of common ballasts that can be replaced cheaply.You can upgrade all components if you decide to.The main disadvatages are a fixture to mount the components would need to be made.You have to do all the wiring/mounting/etc.. as well.

[UofODuck]

DIY....it may take me forever to do. Supper busy...just would like to by the best for around 700. Do you have any other suggestions?