I'm looking for your expert advice. I currently have a 50 breeder (36x18x18 inch) mixed reef running 3 39watt T5HO bulbs (all ATI; 2 blue plus and 1 special) and would like to convert to LED lighting. I would also like to be able to take this array, replicate it and use the two to light a 90 gallon (48x18x24 inch) in the future.
I'm thinking 4 rows with 12 Cree LEDs each will work on the 50. But am not sure if I can get a happy-medium with heatsink size and LED spacing. Then throw in the confounding factor of optics and I'm really stuck. I want to be sure that I'll end up with an array that has good coverage and PAR on a heatsink that is not too small for the 36" 50 gallon and not too big to put two of them on a 48" 90 gallon. Please help me plan this out so I can start saving $ and get off the T5HO bulb replacement train.
If it helps I plan to get barebones kits from nanotuners.com with ELN60-48D driver substitutions (though these drivers don't appear to be on nanotuners at the moment...?). I'll probably go with a heatsinkusa heat sink (but am intrigued by the use of Aluminum C-channel that I'm seeing on other forums and would appreciate your opinion on this option).
I'm also thinking about adding LED rows slowly as I remove T5HO bulbs... what are your thoughts on this?
I'm sure I'll have plenty more questions as I plan and construct this.
just a comment; 48 LEDs over your 50g is going to be pretty high intensity especially if you're considering optics.
i have 72 over my 120 and have 250par in many spots on the sandbed... you dont need to worry too much about par
It's not really that excessive, XSiVE It's all down to the current that the LEDs are driven to. Is 48 LEDs necessary? No.
Tom, I think what may be best for what you are planning is to make the system modular. If you set it up so that each module effectively covers 1ft of tank length (don't worry about width, that will be dealt with in each module), all you need to do is add one more module once you move to the 90g. I think a 4x4 array (2" on center between LEDs per row, and 3" on center between rows) on a 10"x8" heatsink should do the trick. Build one and see what you think of it, then build the remaining units for the tank. The width of the two tanks are the same, so you shouldn't need to modify the modules once you change tanks. You may need to add optics once you move to the 90g to keep PAR levels up. 60 degrees should be fine there. No need for optics on the 50g. If you use XR-E LEDs, then adding/removing optics is a snap.
Can the MW LPC drivers be dimmed using the ALC module on a Reefkeeper?
Thanks,
Tom
in a word: no.
edit: if you want a dimmable driver and want to stick with easy AC input you're going to have to go to something in the ELN series, if you dont mind another step in construction you can do a power supply plus dimmable buckpuck configuration.
edit: if you want a dimmable driver and want to stick with easy AC input you're going to have to go to something in the ELN series, if you dont mind another step in construction you can do a power supply plus dimmable buckpuck configuration.
Thanks XSiVE, I was thinking that was the case. I was planning to use ELN60-48D drivers all along.
So, evil next question... Are ELN60-48D drivers available from nanotuners?
T5HO/LED hybrid
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Originally Posted by XSiVE
