What brand heater or probe to buy?

[greenstarfish03]

I have had 2 - 250W Ebo Jager heaters for more then 6 years and they have worked flawlessly. I have moved to a bigger tank 120G w/ a 100G rubbermaid sump so I had to add a third heater to keep my temp stable. I picked up a Hydor at the local fish store mainly b/c it came in the 400W size. It broke for no reason and shocked me in less then 6 months so I need something new. I don't want to run 3 heaters in the future all of the time so I'm looking for something that comes in a bigger size then the Ebo Jagers and I defitly don't want another Hydor.

Anyone use the Finex Deluxe Titanium Probe? This comes up to 800W and they sell it at bulk reef supply.

Any other brands that are reconmended that come in at least 400W would be appreciated.

Thanks

[rmalone]

UMM just get more 250w ebo jagers. I would prefer 3 heaters over 1 or 2, **** I run 4 250 ebos staged out on my RKL. I have them seperated at .1 deg intervals. You already know the ebos are the best, stick with what works.

[Manoj's Reef]

I always recommend no heaters. Because of the failure you just described.

[rmalone]

So how do you recommend keeping a tank at 78deg when the house is at 62deg? My tank routinely sees ambient temps of 45-50deg in the winter, I cant imagine my return pump heating 200g of water 33deg over ambient. In fact it takes about 1000watts of heat to do it, hence the reason I run 4 250w ebos.

I guess you wouldn't need a heater if you run your house at 78deg or want to keep rainbow trout otherwise most people NEED to run a heater. If you run them through a controller you should be able avoid problems with a faulty heater.

[Manoj's Reef]

I know it can be hard, I run my tank at home so I dont run into the problem as much. But people who run their tank in the basement run into temp issues. Some ways I use to maintain temp

- Bring light closer to the water surface, Increase light intensity if possible. Add pumps to the system etc.

But for large systems the options I have suggested might work or not.

[barrycuda]

I have had 2 of the finnex titanium heaters and a hydor they all lasted less than a year.

[greenstarfish03]

LOL- Trout I'm not worried about a faulty heater b/c of the controller. I just want one that won't break and provide enough power In a perfect world I would like to add one more heater to my 2 -250W Ebo's, but really only need 2 so if one fails I could run off 2 for a while or if I want to do a water change I can pull one for a while to heat my water.

Another goal is to free a socket on my RKL/PC4 so I can run a dosing pump w/o having to add another PC4 (expensive).

"I guess you wouldn't need a heater if you run your house at 78deg or want to keep rainbow trout otherwise most people NEED to run a heater. If you run them through a controller you should be able avoid problems with a faulty heater."

[cg5071]

The jebos come in 300w. I was going to say stick with them too as so far they are the only heater that hasnt went haywire. PLus with the glass the way it is you are supposed to be able to use less watts. When I was looking for a new heater, it seemed to be true compaired to the watts other heaters suggested. I think it was aquacave that had 300w. Though they were on backorder so I just got a 250w.

[Tom@HaslettMI]

I'll second Ebo Jager as being a good brand. But if you use the RKL as the thermostat then all you really need is a heater(s) that won't leak/shatter.

Another goal is to free a socket on my RKL/PC4 so I can run a dosing pump w/o having to add another PC4 (expensive).

Check out this thread, specifically post #23... you can run all of your heaters on one PC-4 plug. I'm also running several lights on one plug... just be sure you won't exceed the amp rating for the outlet.

HTH,
Tom

[spartyblaze]

I think titanium with the external controller is the best way to go if you aren't running any type of Aquarium Controller. At least it lessens the likelihood of shock and my experience with them is pretty good.