Care of Large Polyp Non-Photosynthetic Corals

[stunreefer]

Purpose of Thread:

This is a brief description in "Laymans Terms" of how to feed and keep large polyp non-photosynthetic corals (NPS coral). I see countless threads and questions regarding "how to feed my new sun coral", or "how do I get the polyps on my new sun coral to open?" They're honestly a relatively easy coral to keep, some just require a little TLC. The following process can be followed for any large polyp non-photosynthetic coral Genus, such as Tubastrea ("Sun Coral"), Dendrophyllia ("Dendros"), Balanophyllia ("Balanos"), etc.


Introduction:

Large polyp NPS coral are pretty much the easiest NPS corals to keep in that they're relatively forgiving in regards to water quality and can go much longer between feedings compared to their other NPS counterparts such as gorgonians and "soft" NPS coral. Most only require feedings a couple times per week or so, but all will grow faster if fed more frequently. They all prefer meaty foods such as brine shrimp, Mysis shrimp, krill, silversides, squid, clams and things of that type. Pieces of any of the aforementioned foods should be of suitable size for the polyp you're feeding; For example you wouldn't want to feed a polyp of Tubastrea coccinea a full silverside, but you could cut it up into very small pieces and make their day


Adding to Aquarium and Feeding:

First acclimate your new NPS coral as you would any coral, inspect for pests, and dip accordingly. There are several predators that feed exclusivlely on a certain NPS coral such as nudibranchs and snails, and the predator will generally retain the color of the Species they eat. I recommend quarantining (QT) all new incoming corals or fish, so that should be your next step if you QT new acquisitions. Once in the QT (or display if you skip QT) feed the tank as you would any day and watch for the polyp(s) on the NPS coral to open. If they open, feed 'em! Keep in mind that the polyps do not need to be fully extended! If you see even one lilttle tentacle peeking out of the coralite feed it, and then the polyp will begin to fully open in due time. In my opinion spot-feeding is the best means to feed these guys as it's easy to control how much food is going into the tank and ensure that no food goes to waste by having all the food go into a polyp, rather than scatter throughout the tank and create excess nutrients. Personally I use a "KENT SeaSquirt" to feed; Pull the little tiny end off of it, sometimes you have to cut it off as some of them are glued, then you can feed meaty foods with them rather than just liquids. I have several of them, two with different bends to feed in hard to reach places, and one straight one (to bend them, heat over the small extension over the stove for a minute and gently bend it). Turkey Basters work great too, along with eye droppers from the drug store for very small foods. It is important to attempt to feed every polyp! It's thought that the colony only shares "stored" energy; Large polyp NPS coral stores Nitrogen and Phosphorous within the skeletal body, which is one way they survive long transit times. It can be tedious, but you will develop a routine that should only take a few minutes. I have over two hundred individual mouths to feed, some very small, some larger (depending on species) and I can feed every single one of them in under fifteen minutes.

One thing to watch for while keeping large polyp NPS coral, especially keeping many of them, is high (detrimental) nutrient levels. As with any aquarium you have to make sure that your nutrient import (feeding, source water, etc.) equals your nutrient export (water changes, skimmers, denitrators, probiotic systems, etc.). Many people who keep NPS only tanks utilize probiotic systems (me included) in order to keep nutrients at bay, although this is by far a necessity, as any means will work as long as you keep parameters in check. This is however one reason I highly recommend spot-feeding rather than broadcast feeding as you can control the food rather than letting it loose in the water column. Large polyp NPS coral are not as finicky when it comes to Phosphate and Nitrate levels as say, Acropora Species are, although if Phosphate levels are allowed to climb too high it will inhibit calcification as with any true (calcifying) coral. If Nitrate levels are allowed to climb too high it will start to cause tissue recession and eventual death.


Polyps Won't Open?!?:

Sometimes the polyps won't open for you intially. Wait a day or two and let them settle in to see if they open, if they don't after the third day you'll want to take action to get nutrients to the coral a.s.a.p.