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dinoflagellates?


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  1. #11
    Wy Renegade - Reefkeeper CR Member
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    Apr 2010
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    Wyoming
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    Randy

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    Seems like I ran across a recommendation for elevating salinity a bit as well for help in battling these. In fact, I'm pretty sure that why I run my tank with a slightly higher salinity. Don't swear to that, but I think so.
    I collect PEs, and I'm always looking to trade for ones I don't have yet.

  2. #12

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    Increased salinity would make it more difficult to maintain Ph at higher levels. The salt replaces oxygen. The higher the salinity the less dissolved oxygen. Chemists correct me if I am wrong.
    Quote Originally Posted by Wy Renegade View Post
    Seems like I ran across a recommendation for elevating salinity a bit as well for help in battling these. In fact, I'm pretty sure that why I run my tank with a slightly higher salinity. Don't swear to that, but I think so.

  3. #13

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    You would probably be safe as high as 8.6 but the important thing is at the low end you don't fall below 8.2.
    Quote Originally Posted by brandeewyne View Post
    i have .. my snail population has dwindled drastically. that was the final indication of what it was (undoubtedly) i was dealing with. looks like i'll be restocking once i win this battle.

    my pH is currently peaking at 8.5 .. would you recommend i go any higher?

    thank you, i'll be diving into that article with the quickness. i'm so grateful for any help i can get .. i'm ready to pull my hair out. it's been difficult finding much "solid" information on the issue so far. from the reading i've done, i'm under the impression the exact species most home aquarist deal with have yet to be identified let alone directly studied.

  4. #14
    brandeewyne - Reefkeeper
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    Jan 2011
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    brandee

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    at least two weeks of raised pH .. day 3 of "lights out" .. still signs of dinos in the tank, albeit a considerably depleted population. to change the water or not to change the water, that is the question. the last thing i want to do is encourage another bloom.

    i hate to continue on too much longer with my lights down, but if i don't get the snot attack under control i'm going to lose everything

  5. #15

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    I would recommend no water change but I wouldn't go more than 3 days without light. This is why I suggest waiting until you have the dinos on the run prior to going lights out.
    Quote Originally Posted by brandeewyne View Post
    at least two weeks of raised pH .. day 3 of "lights out" .. still signs of dinos in the tank, albeit a considerably depleted population. to change the water or not to change the water, that is the question. the last thing i want to do is encourage another bloom.

    i hate to continue on too much longer with my lights down, but if i don't get the snot attack under control i'm going to lose everything

  6. #16
    CR Member
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    Jan 2011
    Location
    Michigan
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    Don't be afraid to do a water change, unless u have a nutrient rich water source. Hit them with the siphon. I would have hit them REALLY good prior to shutting the lights off, at least to put a dent in them. Make sure u check your water chemistry, in the tank, and your makeup water.

  7. #17
    brandeewyne - Reefkeeper
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    it looked promising this morning as the lights came on .. i'm hopeful the last few hours void of light did the trick! plan on hitting up a 25% WC today (after playing chemistry lab, of course!)

    keep your fingers crossed for me, this mess has had me frazzled!

  8. #18
    HappyCoral - Reefkeeper CR Member
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    Oct 2010
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    Christian

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    I have used Seachem Clarity for a (coagulant) with positive results. It does make a mess for awhile though.

  9. #19
    brandeewyne - Reefkeeper
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    owosso
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    brandee

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    Quote Originally Posted by HappyCoral View Post
    I have used Seachem Clarity for a (coagulant) with positive results. It does make a mess for awhile though.
    what other methods do you use it in conjuction with? do you use it before or after a shortened light period? water changes?

    thanks much for any information!

  10. #20

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    Throughout this process Brandee make sure you run lots of carbon and change it frequently. Dinos give off toxins and carbon will help to absorb them. If you must do a WC go ahead but don't be surprised if you get another bloom. I found that manual removal with a turkey baster to be the better option. Every time I did another WC I got another bloom and started the battle all over again.

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