Lights off to kill algae?

[jolson10450]

like i said before get an emerald crab =) they eat that stuff like its cake!

[Rook]

I had an emerald crab in there, I've not seen him in a while but its not uncommon to randomly see him after months of no shows. I also have a seahare that I just saw yesterday. Oddly, the seahare travel right across several nice patches of hair algae and keep on going. That is when I decided to attempt the lights out. On Tues or Weds I'll scrub the rock and this weekend I'll pick up some more cleaners; and keep the filtration going strong. If it does not work, I'll consider taking some rock out to clean it.

[MUCHO REEF]

I have a lot of live rock in my 90 reef and most of it is covered on every inch with very short algae. I have it under control such that it's not growing, but I'd like to get rid of it. I just (finally) have a skimmer on board and working and a carbon/gfo reactor, so I'm confident in controlling nutrients going forward. Someone suggested to me that I should turn the lights off for two days, kill the algae, blow the rocks clean, turn lights back on. The idea appears sound; what say you??

Hello, wow, sorry to hear this. Turning the lights off is only a bandaid of a cure. I think you have to get to the root cause of the problem. I have a very long reply I posted on another board. Too long to post here, so I will PM you the link. It has worked for all who have tried it. Good luck.

Mucho Reef

[whitetiger61]

Mucho

can you pm methat link also

thanks

Rick

[Rook]

Thanks for the tips and suggestions.

Thus far I have; added an AquaC 120 Skimmer; added a BRS carbon/GFO reactor (was using both passively in the sump); started using filter socks and changing them once or twice per week; 10 gallon weekly water changes (from sporatic before); added snails, emeralds, tux urchin; took a few rocks out that have no corals and dipped them in saltwater and scrubbed them; scrubbed the rest of the rock in tank with a brush and did a large water change; and before the scrub I had a 3 day dark period and I've reduced my photo period on the lights (T5's) from 11 hours to 7 hours per day.

The HA is not really growing, never really got too long, but it stays short (the Tang may be helping this) and covers all of the rocks where ever there is no coral. Oddly, it is most abundant on the undersides where there is very little direct light. It looks nearly like stains of dirt and wipes off pretty easy, although the stuff more in the light is green.

My future goals are: Get my calcium, Alk, Mag up to ensure high coral and coraline growth rates; continue to scrub rocks and water change, and keep maintainance on the skimmer, reactor, filter socks.

[MUCHO REEF]

Will do

[jimsflies]

Mucho just do a c&p.

[MUCHO REEF]

Mucho just do a c&p.

OK, but it's really long. Was written long ago on another reef board so I C & P'd it as you requested. Hope it helps.



"Hello, what kind of algae is it?

Have you checked your phosphate levels?

How old are your lights?

You should purchase an Algae Blenny, I keep one in my tank.

Do you have a clean up crew? if not, I'd purchase an adequate amount based on your tank size.

I would also watch the photoperiod, decrease it or run a couple black out days once you have it under control.

I would be proactive in finding out the root cause of the algae bloom though.

Are you using tap water or R/O ? Tap should never be used, some will differ, but I say no no.

I would consider a compatible fish based on the types of corals you have which will graze as well.

I remember hearing recently that there is an article currently in one of the coral mags where someone used a ratio mixture of peroxide to kill algae. If I heard wrong, I stand corrected, but I remember glancing over the post a week ago someone. I will try to find it to share.

Freshwater or coral dip that I'm aware of will not kill the algae, but knowing what type of algae it is, I can give you a more definitive way to combat it.

Are you over feeding?

What is the temp of your tank?

Trying to think of other options, maybe someone else can weigh in to help you.

Good luck, I hope this helps and an update would be great. Hope you get a handle on it.

Mucho Reef "




Follow up to her first reply below.




"koll12, we have all experienced what you are going through and this is beatable. Reefing is like the life we live, we learn from our mistakes as well as our accomplishments. If you give up now, you've allowed reefing to beat you. I was heading out for a morning run, but came back to type this lengthy reply to help you. I say you can save that rock and your tank, so what-ah-say mate, are we going to do this or not? What you have is an abundance of macro ( Nuisance ) algae. You can do this girlfriend.

Here's what I want you to do Laura.

1. Prepare a well aerated 20 % water change with R/O water only. Aerate for 24 hours and match the temp and salinity exactly of your tank before adding it and yes, even matching the PH. You don't want to cause and issue while trying to correct another. Not doing so can possibly shock your system while doing a simple water change. Do another water change in 7 days the exact same way. It won't hurt your system if you do it right, trust me. This and what's written below worked for me many years ago.

2. Turn off your lights for 48 hours.

3. Check to make sure the bulbs are good as old bulbs can sometimes contribute to the algae bloom.

4. Check and double check your nitrates and phosphates with a very good test kit then double check them with a friend or LFS test kits of a different brand. Even slightly elevated levels of Nitrates will cause reduce calcification and can alter PH and Alk levels.

Phosphates can get into your water column via food sources, source water and some additives. Be proactive in making sure these are not a root cause. If feeding with frozen foods, be sure to thaw first in a cup of tank water, then strain/drain off all the water, then add just enough without over feeding to your tank. This liquid is often nutrient rich and you don't want it in your tank. You must use some phosphate removal media. I haven't use it in years so maybe someone can suggest a brand and type.

5. If you have a protein skimmer, then crank it up as it is the most natural and effective means of nutrient export which is what you need right now. If you think about the frothy foam from the ocean, which is nothing more than what your skimmer is doing, is a natural means of nutrient export. So using the skimmer right now is a must I think and empty the cup daily and clean it with warm water and a dedicated tooth brush. The down side is that you will be removing food for your filter feeding inverts, but there is adequate amounts that you won't starve them and your greater concern I think is knocking down the algae.


6. Check your heater, make sure it is set accurately, no higher than 80, I prefer 79 degrees. But for this issue, and according to A. Calfo, if you slowly lower your temp to 77 degrees and raise your PH to 8.5, this also will help control the outbreak. But make these adjustments carefully and slowly and it does work. Once the issue is resolved, slowly return these readings to your normal levels. You aren't going to solve this issue overnight but if you start today, you can slowly turn this around.

7. High silicates can and will also contribute to algae blooms which is why I'm against tap water usage for reef tanks as it is loaded with silicates.

8. Though polyps thrive in nutrient rich water, excessive nutrients is the line that's hard not to cross without remaining proactive. If you have any current mechanical filters, they must be cleaned and rinsed frequently as they will also accumulate nutrient rich gunk which will contribute to your problem. Even skimmers should be cleaned including the collection cups to prevent re-entry of what you have removed already. You can try using poly pads/filters, but again, you have to rinse and keep them clean.

9. A clean up crew is essential my friend. Natural predation via fish and inverts does the work for you 24/7. They will consume uneaten food, control algae and help with detritus buildup and they work for free. Pods, slugs, snails, limpets, chitons, crabs, urchins will all help, but all aren't needed.

10. Current, this is so vital and often over looked. Current feeds and exports waste, detritus, sediment etc. Insufficient current has been shown to contribute to cyano growth in stagnant areas of a reef tank. I even make it a habit once a month to take a power head and blow off my entire reef. Try it, you will be amazed at all the junk that is dislodged. It can then be removed via filters in an overflow or sump filters. I prefer and recommend current which hits most areas of your tank left and right.

11. Carbon is a must, run a high grade granulated activated carbon and only enough based on the size of your tank. It is great in the removal of organics in your system. You can use it in a media bag but be sure to keep the bag cleaned and rinsed. Rinse the bag weekly and discard/replace carbon every 2 or 3 weeks.

13 Choose an algae eating fish, ( a herbivores for the algae) are natural predators and will also help. The most popular are surgeon fish with are natural grazers and will mow the lawn for you like you won't believe. Algae Blennies are also great to have and watch.

14. Using a phosphate removal pad or media will work well also. There's much debate over whether to use Ferric hydroxide based or aluminum oxide based pads or media. You will have to decide which is best or maybe someone else can weigh in since I haven't used it in many years.

15. Manual removal of the algae and scrub with a tooth brush or wired brush.

16. If you have a fug, using chaetomorpha etc for nutrient export will also help.


I hope this helps, now go get'em tiger.


Mucho Reef




...end of C & P



Hopefully something here will help. Good Luck.

[MUCHO REEF]

I always keep reference material on hand in case I need it. One of the books I keep close and I highly recommend to every reefer is "Algae, A Problem Solver Guide, by Julian Sprung". It not only chronicles. but it also gives specific ID for a host of algaes both good and bad. It details the biology of alage and how to combat it and keep it at bay. This is an inexpensive piece of literature that is very easy to read and is only 73 pages long with tons of pictures and recommendations. It's just better to be proactive than reactive when issues arise.


Mucho Reef