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carbonate build-up issues


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  1. #11
    Tom@HaslettMI - Reefkeeper
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    One thought I've been using a "store brand" baking soda and that may be less pure than Arm & Hammer. The most recent alk gallon is A&H so we'll see if this has an affect.

    I'm also wondering if Mrs. Wages pickling lime goes bad? I think the canister I'm using was purchased and opened over a year ago.

    Thanks,
    Tom

  2. #12
    Tom@HaslettMI - Reefkeeper
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    Last nights parameters... forgot to post them.

    pH: 8.3 (salifert test kit)
    Alk: 7 DKH (TropicMarin test kit)

  3. #13
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    Tom,

    I would do a kalk ATO in your tank IMO. But saturate it more than the normal amount. Typically its 2 tsp per Gallon. In one of my system I'm actually @ 2 tbsp. per gallon *High demand CA*. I believe Kalk will have a PH of 12.7-12.9 for a full saturation of 2 tsp per gallon. With 2 tbsp it will be the same PH because Kalk will not surpass that, but your saturation level will be 3x more so it will take less kalk ato to hit your parameters. So if you have a tank that has more demand, I would go this route. Just make sure your Kalk has time to setlle down before topping off in your system. I set my ATO on a timer rather than a sensor *Sensors can calcify and get stuck/malfunction in time* Measure how much evap you have per day* i.e. typically evap is 2-3% of your total water volume. So say you got 70G its around 2-2.5G per day, I would set my timer to drip my dosing pump for a length of 8 hrs *during lights out is best* say midnight to 8am that is when my PH is the lowest and then when my display lights turn on the corals have CA to absorb while the PH/alk maintains normal parameter at night and day so the corals will have more of a consistent PH/ALK throughout the 24 hr. period. Also during the daytime you can also dose extra CA if need be.


    I'm sure you probably know this, but just in case:

    *Make sure you aren't dumping 2.5G of Kalk ATO at once, but in the 8 hours time period, slow drips.
    Last edited by RaysReef; 11-27-2009 at 03:42 PM.
    Going Live Early 2010

  4. #14
    Tom@HaslettMI - Reefkeeper
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    Thanks for the info. Ray. I think I may not be using the kalk properly. I haven't been measuring how much CaOH I've been adding to the dispenser. More just maintaining several inches in the dispenser.

    Another question... I use a Tunze osmolator for an ATO so it never doses more than a few ounces at a time. I would prefer to run it 24/7. Do you think that would be alright?

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom@HaslettMI View Post
    Thanks for the info. Ray. I think I may not be using the kalk properly. I haven't been measuring how much CaOH I've been adding to the dispenser. More just maintaining several inches in the dispenser.

    Another question... I use a Tunze osmolator for an ATO so it never doses more than a few ounces at a time. I would prefer to run it 24/7. Do you think that would be alright?
    I'm against the ATO sensors. It can malfunction in time. If you really want some one of switch, I'd go with a float switch instead. At least that would be safer than the osmolator sensors or jbj ones.

    24/7 kalk dosing would be good, but I'd say it would be better when the *lights are out* thats when PH Drops. During the day when everything is normal it wouldn't be necessary to dose, it would just elevate your parameters then just drop again at night. It would be better to have consistency throughout the day, rather than spikes here and there.

    You can use the aqualifter or a dosing pumps with this option using a timer instead of sensors. I like timers due to the fact it has a shut off safety and won't just keep running until all your kalk top off is all out. This way your won't kill everything in your tank.

    I can elaborate more on how to set the timer and how much ato to have if you want to go that route.
    Going Live Early 2010

  6. #16
    Tom@HaslettMI - Reefkeeper
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    Ray,
    Thank you so much for your help and info. I think I'll stick with the osmolator. I run a refugium lit 24/7 and don't have pH fluctuations/problems.

    I just got parameters tested at the LFS...

    Ca: 500+
    KH: 6 DKH
    Mg: 1200

    I'm planning to dose Mg tonight and only dose alk for the next couple of days. Then I'll get the water retested. Does that seem like the correct course of action?

    I'm also decided to build a newer, better, stronger kalk dispenser so that I can super saturate the top off water. The current one can't hold 8.75 cups of kalk! Once I get the alk up I'll see how kalk only goes.

    Stay tuned as I'll continue to post water parameters and progress.

  7. #17
    skuttduck - Reefkeeper CR Member
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    I found that with the osmolator sensor, I have to soak it in vinegar every couple of days to get the calcium off of it.

  8. #18
    Tom@HaslettMI - Reefkeeper
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    Quote Originally Posted by skuttduck View Post
    I found that with the osmolator sensor, I have to soak it in vinegar every couple of days to get the calcium off of it.
    Very true. The good thing is that the buildup doesn't cause it to get stuck in the "on" position. The bad is it stops it from coming on at all!

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by skuttduck View Post
    I found that with the osmolator sensor, I have to soak it in vinegar every couple of days to get the calcium off of it.
    If your going to stay with the osmolator, then check every week or so and do a set routine maintenance on it *soak in vinegar* as skuttduck mentioned.

    Good luck
    Going Live Early 2010

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom@HaslettMI View Post
    Very true. The good thing is that the buildup doesn't cause it to get stuck in the "on" position. The bad is it stops it from coming on at all!
    If there is enough CA build up it can go the other way as well *I've had that happen*. If your routinely checking you shouldn't have a problem.
    Going Live Early 2010

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