For those of you using kalk(reactor or auto-top-off)with smaller tanks and some with large tanks keep a keen eye on PH.In my old 30 gal,I dosed full strength kalk 24/7 via float-valve in sump.This caused high PH(8.5) and calc/alk levels started to become very hard(impossible) to maintain.This was because cal/alk was getting deposited all over the sump and pumps in a process called abiotic precipitation.Carbon dioxide is linked to this as well(kalk requires CO2 to convert into the usable forms of Cal/alk)
CO2 can be in short supply in many reef tanks and high PH/precipitation/deposits
can often be fixed just by adding an airstone in the sump.I used to advocate the 24/7 method but after my past experiences i will probably go back to just night time additions where PH is naturally lower and CO2 levels are higher.Although,the baking soda/CaChl method has been very easy to maintain levels for me.
This being said and agreed upon... I also use a ca reactor and just allow the effluent to begin at the beginning of the 55 sump/fuge with the kalk effluent being just before the return pump. I've found winter stability to be 8.0-8.2(day/night) due to atmospheric CO2(windows closed) and during the warmer months a stability of 8.2-8.4 .
There's nowhere else I'ld rather be... unless, of course, you're buying
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