yes they are all junk!!!
yes they are all junk!!!
Originally Posted by PolskaReefer
I agree!!!!!!
+1 as well! i hav emy controller to control them in case they malfunction. if it breaks well then shame on me.
I agree, heaters are seemingly more prone to failure than other devices. I've learned to simply accept the fact they will fail, and almost always in the on position. I use the following to mitigate the potential damage and inconvenience...
Double Up - Heaters are one piece of equipment where bigger is NOT better. Use 2 heaters and under-size them (instead of 1 200W, use 2 100W) This accomplishes a few things. A single failure typically won't raise temperatures to the point of risking your tank's inhabitants, and any changes occur more slowly - increasing your odds of detecting the change prior to loss of life. It also means you have built in redundancy - The odds of both units failing simultaneously is slim and it buys you time to get a replacement.
Use a controller - Either a tank controller (Apex, RK, Profilux) or a heat specific controller such as a Ranco. Set the controller to the desired temp range and set the heater thermostat slightly higher. This saves cycles on the heater thermostat (the part most likely to fail) and allows the controller, which is generally more accurate and reliable managing the temp. The tank controller also provides the advantage of an email and/or text message alerting you to the failure so you can quickly intervene.
As heaters are relatively inexpensive - I also keep a spare on hand for peace of mind.
I have been using the aqueon heaters. I havent had any problems with them yet and my LFS will replace them free of charge if they do fail. On the other hand I bought a Visa Therm and it failed within a couple weeks. Marineland did replace it and now it is being used as the mixing heater
22g and 50g tanks
My three Mag7s are the best heaters you could ask for all others suck.
CR Member
Ebos are the best out there, not perfect but the best. I would second the notion that the heat load should be split among multiple heaters vs "one big ol' heater". I have 4-250w ebos in my 180, I control them via my RKL. They are only 1yr old but rock solid so far. It would bum me out if they have lowered the quality. On mine the cords, t-stats, and general overall build quality far exceed the stealths.
CR Member
I run 2 250 watts in my sump for the 250 gal. but they never have a light on like they are coming on...I guess the mag drives and the MH's are keeping me plenty warm. The 1/2 hp chiller runs quite a bit though.In my FW stuff the Stealths have held up well for me though. on the same one after 1 1/2 yrs. now.
The days are long and the work is difficult but every night I sleep as a man who has achieved his goals.
CR Member
I use only stealth heaters. If one goes bad I can send it back since they have a lifetime warranty.
Also, I use 3 underrated heaters in case one sticks in the on position. Also, if that happens they are connected to my aquacontroller, if the tank gets up to 78 they all turn off no matter what they really want to do.
I will think outside the glassbox.
Glass tube heaters are just glorified light bulbs. You run electricity through an element, and it makes heat. Just like a light bulb. In this case, of course, the element is selected for optimal heat output rather than brightness. Now, your light bulbs get changed every year, possibly even sooner. But, do they all suck too? I think we are just a tad hard on heater MFRs (and no, I have no affiliation with any).
It has been repeated often above, and I love the idea. Just buy two undersized heaters, and the chance of boiling your tank are greatly reduced. Replace the heaters when you replace your "other" lightbulbs, and you will likely never have problems.
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