Don't waste your money. Get a good capillary tube flow restrictor from Spectrapure or Buckeye, trim it to fit acccording to your exact water conditions and forget the "flush valve". It does nothing but lighten your wallet and give you a warm fuzzy feeling, it has no proven documented value. If you want to flush something get a DI bypass valve and flush the TDS creep out before t hits your DI resin, that does have proven value.
Return that restrictor and get a capillary tube for $5 from Spectrapure or Buckeye. With the capillary tube you adjust the waste ratio to be exact unlike the fixed restrictor that are only "ballpark" close and often not even close to the suggested 4:1. There is a difference.
I would return the flush kit at the same time as really, truthfully it does absolutely nothing useful except put money in the vendors pocket. Think about it, its not flushing the treated side of the membrane so does nothing for TDS creep which is the problem. It supposedly flushes the tap water side of the membrane but really it does not increase the velocity or volume enough to do squat.
I am going to stick with what I have for now. The time or money in returning, shipping, ect just doesnt sound worth the hassle or effort right now.
I dont even use DI. I dont really strive for the absolute cleanest water possible and am sure what I got, for now, will be fine. This RO has done me right for the last 10 years already, till the flow restrictor went bad on me. I will also keep the flush kit for when I eventually do get DI, as recomended previously.
I appreciate the info though. If I still dont make water in a timely manner after the new restrictor, I will look into the capilary tubes. Depending on my water pressure, I might end up needing a booster pump. If I need a booster, I might as well add the capilary tube while I am at it.
I am very curious what the pressure gauge is going to tell me....
The flush kit does nothing for DI where a DI bypass valve does plus gives you the use of RO only or RO/DI.
The pressure gauge tells you the pressure available to the RO membrane plus tells you when your sediment and/or carbon block are plugging or fouling and causing headloss to the RO membrane and reduced rejection rate or removal efficiency. The absolute best tools you can have for a RO or RO/DI system are an inline pressure gauge (or two like I use) and a handheld TDS meter. With those two you can troubleshoot just about anything. A third is a thermometer but not as useful as the first two.