CalmSeasQuest's 36" Nano Build

[Sir Patrick]

So-

What ya decide on the coral selection????

[CalmSeasQuest]

Really looking forward to this tank, Tom.

Thanks Chris

So-

What ya decide on the coral selection????

Therein lies the next challenge. I have purchased way to much stock for this tank (livestock section of original post updated to show how out of control I got ) I'm working on creating carved rock "groupings" (i.e. Chalices, Millis, Acans, Rics, Z/Ps...) of like-corals that will be modular collections that can be assembled then placed in the tank together (rather than trying to place individual Frags along the substrate using long forceps. The SPS will be placed individually in the aquascape as they will be higher up and easier to get to.

I'm just going to "wing it" - I'll update the livestock list to show which items actually make their way into the tank. Once the contest is over, I'll probably revamp the tank to include some favorites that can't initially be included due to the spending cap.

[tsudonymn]

Awesome can't wait to see how this turns out! With all that livestock it's going to be tough to choose what makes the cut. Maybe you should call a vote

-Chris

[nate_newton]

The build is looking good Thomas. Good luck with the stock choice and placement, it looks like a hard decision.

[Sir Patrick]

Pretty cool, how you have that reefbrite hanging on your T5 fixture. Is it made to hang that way, or did you retrofit it yourself?

[CalmSeasQuest]

Awesome can't wait to see how this turns out! With all that livestock it's going to be tough to choose what makes the cut. Maybe you should call a vote

-Chris

Thanks Chris, choosing the livestock is going to be fun. In Acans alone, I've got 40+ to choose from

The build is looking good Thomas. Good luck with the stock choice and placement, it looks like a hard decision.

Hard but Fun I'm working on a couple of unique ideas that might make it even more interesting.

Pretty cool, how you have that reefbrite hanging on your T5 fixture. Is it made to hang that way, or did you retrofit it yourself?

Thanks Chris, The ReefBrite have adjustable angled brackets that allow for many different mounting options. I found a T5 fixture with enough "dead space" on one end to allow me to mount the LEDs, not block the T5s and gain proper cooling. The other advantage is I can easily adjust all angles and heights on both fixtures, allowing me to focus the higher PAR LEDs where needed.

The only trade-off I had to make was mounting the T5 fixture backwards which places the cords in a more noticeable area than I would have preferred. Otherwise the LEDs would have to of been mounted on the back of the T5 fixture limiting coverage options and blasting light that would have been visible when viewing the tank from the front.

All in all, I think the lighting worked out well - Now I just hope the tank's inhabitants agree

[CalmSeasQuest]

I've started creating the modular pieces that will hold many of the Frags. They will either "key" into the existing rockwork, or be shaped to trace the outline of the pillar bases (i.e low light chalices.) This allows me to pre-build most of the coral modules rather than having to place individual pieces using forceps. I'm hoping to create these same-species grouping in a way that they will grow together, creating ribbons of Acans, Favia and SPS that will consume the tank in color.

I've removed the 2nd Tunze 6025 from the left side of the tank. All that remains is a single 6015. I've found it takes very little to move the entire water column in a long/narrow tank. A single 6015 does so nicely. I may add another 6015 at some point in the future to create an alternating current or a bit of turbulence, but for now theres a nice flow in the tank.

I've also been thinking about my initial dosing plans and believe I've found a better way. My concern is ALK/Ca and trace mineral depletion in such a tiny tank so densely stocked. I initially planned on 2 part and Kalk dosing using peristaltic pumps controlled by the Apex. While I may still add Kalk to the ATO to support overnight pH, the salinity creep resulting from the required amount of 2-part in tank with only 7.5 gallons would require frequent manual removal of water to allow the ATO to reduce salinity. A recent trip to the Tropicorium got me thinking....

The Trop maintains 50,000 gallons of densely stocked tanks using only water changes (City water, no dosing, skimmers, carbon or GFO.) My problem is this tank is in my office. I have no RO/DI at the office, so all water has to be hauled from home. I also have limited maintenance facilities and I travel quite a bit. All of these mandate a simple water change method. Here's what I came up with...

I'll use 2 BRS Top-Off pumps (50ml/min) controlled by the Apex. The daily sequence is as follows;

1. The Apex will turn off the Osmolator ATO
2. One pump will remove 1 quart of tank water and discard it into a 7 gallon bucket hidden behind my desk.
3. The other pump will then replace 1 quart of fresh saltwater from another 7 gallon bucket with a heater and small circulation pump.
4. The Apex then turns the Osmolator back on.

Safeguards include the peristaltic pumps remove and replace a very precise quantity of water. The ATO makes sure water levels are maintained (evap) and salinity is tracked by the Apex and will turn off the pumps and/or the Osmolator should a problem arise and alert me via email and text.

This eliminates the salinity creep problem, creates a system that will run for 28 days without intervention providing for a gradual, 100% water change every month. It also simplifies water transport as I'll only have to haul 5 gallons of RO/DI water every week (to keep both the saltwater and ATO tanks full.)

I think it should work well

[CalmSeasQuest]

The original post is updated. I've begun paring back what will be included (must...stop...buying...Frags ) I still have to reduce the list by another 81 items to get below the cap. I'm sure that will become easier as I start to assemble the groupings. For now, I've decided to omit most of the Zoas and Palys in favor of more of everything else.

The next decision will be whether or not to set aside space for a Ric garden. Because all of the Frags are so small, I'm thinking I will be able to make space for most everything that can be included under the cap (about ~92 corals including the free bonus corals.) It should be fun watching everything grow together, followed by a lot of work Fragging as they run out of space.

I've begun cutting the rock needed for the coral modules. I'm hoping I can get these completed and begin placing corals in the tank by this weekend as I'm in Vegas on business most of next week.

[Heidi]

On Your Mark,... Get ready,... Get Set,...

• Diatoms - Gone
• Hair Algae bloom - Fading fast
• Skimmer - Broken in and rocking
• Pod Population - Exploding (seeded with a batch of Dr. Adelaide Rhodes "Ocean Pods")

Just about finished with the "ugly" stage and water tests show the cycle compete. Should be able to start selecting and adding livestock next week.

I. . .THINK . . . we need a photo update! I wanna see some coral placement darnit!

[creefer]

I've started creating the modular pieces that will hold many of the Frags. They will either "key" into the existing rockwork, or be shaped to trace the outline of the pillar bases (i.e low light chalices.) This allows me to pre-build most of the coral modules rather than having to place individual pieces using forceps. I'm hoping to create these same-species grouping in a way that they will grow together, creating ribbons of Acans, Favia and SPS that will consume the tank in color.

I've removed the 2nd Tunze 6025 from the left side of the tank. All that remains is a single 6015. I've found it takes very little to move the entire water column in a long/narrow tank. A single 6015 does so nicely. I may add another 6015 at some point in the future to create an alternating current or a bit of turbulence, but for now theres a nice flow in the tank.

I've also been thinking about my initial dosing plans and believe I've found a better way. My concern is ALK/Ca and trace mineral depletion in such a tiny tank so densely stocked. I initially planned on 2 part and Kalk dosing using peristaltic pumps controlled by the Apex. While I may still add Kalk to the ATO to support overnight pH, the salinity creep resulting from the required amount of 2-part in tank with only 7.5 gallons would require frequent manual removal of water to allow the ATO to reduce salinity. A recent trip to the Tropicorium got me thinking....

The Trop maintains 50,000 gallons of densely stocked tanks using only water changes (City water, no dosing, skimmers, carbon or GFO.) My problem is this tank is in my office. I have no RO/DI at the office, so all water has to be hauled from home. I also have limited maintenance facilities and I travel quite a bit. All of these mandate a simple water change method. Here's what I came up with...

I'll use 2 BRS Top-Off pumps (50ml/min) controlled by the Apex. The daily sequence is as follows;

1. The Apex will turn off the Osmolator ATO
2. One pump will remove 1 quart of tank water and discard it into a 7 gallon bucket hidden behind my desk.
3. The other pump will then replace 1 quart of fresh saltwater from another 7 gallon bucket with a heater and small circulation pump.
4. The Apex then turns the Osmolator back on.

Safeguards include the peristaltic pumps remove and replace a very precise quantity of water. The ATO makes sure water levels are maintained (evap) and salinity is tracked by the Apex and will turn off the pumps and/or the Osmolator should a problem arise and alert me via email and text.

This eliminates the salinity creep problem, creates a system that will run for 28 days without intervention providing for a gradual, 100% water change every month. It also simplifies water transport as I'll only have to haul 5 gallons of RO/DI water every week (to keep both the saltwater and ATO tanks full.)

I think it should work well

I think you have it covered with this plan. It makes me think I should have purchased the Apex in lieu of the RKL......