I need help please

[thefishgirl]

There are some pretty easy zoa dip recipes out there...freshwater, peroxide, etc. I'd check specifically for a zoa dip recipe and use that. They'll be a little upset after a good dip, but they won't look any worse than they do right now.
I don't think Revive will do the trick, but I've been wrong before. LOL

[whitetiger61]

it doesnt look like zoa pox in the link above..im trying to describ it..its like silver glitter..and only a couple of specks

Rick

[Rabidgoose]

hmmmmm, I would put them in somewhat subdued light with some light to moderate flow and keep an eye on them. I would do an iodine dip with tank water to not stress them anymore. If the losses continue, I would frag off the healthy polyps not directly next to the melting/sickly polyps and discard the rest...Can't really comment on the Revive, I've never used it.


GL

[whitetiger61]

is this just standard iodine you get from the store..i have never had this problem before..i guess im lucky with all the zoas i keep..although they have always been the standard run of the mill zoas..just starting to get into the high end of them now..

thanks for your input

Rick

[thefishgirl]

The little white specks may be sand particles, and are typically nothing to worry about. Zoa pox is another ball game. I'm with rabidgoose on this one. Low light, mod flow. Keep an eye on them. Tubbs are supposed to be pretty hearty, so not sure why they are the only ones in your tank having an issue.

[Rabidgoose]

Yeah tfg, could be sand or could be coloration on the polyp even(another way to ID the true PE's). With only the one frag being affected was a flare for me with zoa pox, it seems to affect zoas randomly IME.

The little white specks may be sand particles, and are typically nothing to worry about. Zoa pox is another ball game. I'm with rabidgoose on this one. Low light, mod flow. Keep an eye on them. Tubbs are supposed to be pretty hearty, so not sure why they are the only ones in your tank having an issue.

[whitetiger61]

ok they are in about as low of light as they can get in this tank..i could move them to the sehorse tank which is taller and has PC lighting instead of t5's but again i think that would stress them futher.. this cannot be healthy for them to stay closed up for so long..they need to eat..the mother colony was being fed forumula 1 and 2 pellets..

Rick

[tazzy695]

well you said they came from a tank with halides which means they would have been used to very high light compared to your tank I would move them up keep the flow low to md though

give them bright light at least as bright as you can get they may be thinking it is night and staying closed

also the frags in the pic look to be fairly new and supper glued to the plug some times the glue just doesn't hold and you loose a polyp or two

[MizTanks]

grrrrrrrr bad Tubbs of Blue bad bad bad~for me anyways~out of the 2 frags I've boughten within the last month~I have none!! That's right! Just got a new frag in on Wednesday and today nadda~didn't even open just melted away~all the other zoa's I got along with em doing wonderful! Sooo I've decided~no more Tubbs for me.

[Sir Patrick]

Polyps not opening.....always a fun one to figure out! There are so many reasons....

By the pic, your polyps still look pretty healthy. Couldnt see any obvious pox, predators or irritators. One thing I might possibly see though is a film growth over your polyps, that may explain the sparkles. I would recomend blowing them off w/ a powerhead, or a good swish in the tank to see if any film comes off. A film on your polyps will stop them from opening.

If I am wrong about the film, which is hard to tell by the pic, I have a couple more possibilities-

These polyps look to be freshly fraged. As as tazzy stated, some polyps could have blown off. I have had freshly fragged polyps not open for 2 weeks, and be ok. I have also had healthy polyps just not take to the fragging and wither away, no matter what I did. Bad glue jobs are a very common issue with polyps not opening- the glue itself becomes the irritator.

Alkalinity is another possibility. If your alk is alot different than the tank you got the polyps from, this can play a roll in your polyps not opening. Diferences in alk and alk swings are known to adversly affect polyps, causing not opening and melting. If they survive a transition, they will not open till they have aclimated to their new tank parameters. Any way to find out the alk of the tank you got these from?

Lighting- As already stated, tubs blues (along with most other blues) are a lower light polyp. Freshly fragged/dipped polyps also apreciate a subdued lighting. Starting said polyps at the bottom, and somtimes even in a bit of shade is a good idea. After they aclimate to the new lighting, they can be moved up little by little over a period of time to aclimate to heigher lighting.

I know this info doesnt give you anything 100%, but hope the info helps you out. Polyps not opening is always a tricky subject, as there are so many causes of the issue. Good luck!