DIY Sump -Build

[lemonyx]

More sump

Spacing out the baffles and making sure they are perpendicular to the bottom. I'm using a 2" pvc pipe which comes out to 2 3/8" spacing between baffles.

All 4 baffles in place, decided not to split the fuge area and will it will be just the baffles.

Before I go any further, I just remembered that I need probe holders so went looking thru my scrap pile and this is what the out come is.

Hummm black or white thumb screws? I used the black ones.

I like to use my "head" to work smarter and not harder (lazyness) but I use the electric drill/driver to tap all of my holes and have had no problems. There will be some who have not done this or think that they "know it all" and will chime in and say it'll break, won't work ect ect ... If you use the right drill size for the tap, it'll work.


Ok enough of that.


So I made two of them, the shorter one is the prob holder for my AquaController, just checking Temp and PH for now. The longer one is for the ATO and will need to make another probe holder as the blank end will hold the float switch for the ATO and instead of a Calcium Reactor I will be using the "Balling" method kind of, and will be dosing Cal, Alk, MAG and whatever else the tank needs so will need another "long" probe holder for three set's of lines.

The first half of the sump is done, now just need to turn it over and start the other side.

(I forgot to mention that the tops of the baffles the corners have been routed or chamfered to take the sharp corner off. If this is not done, it won't feel good. Plus it dresses it up showing the time put into the project)

So the order in which to assemble a tank, sump or whatever is about the same. Start on one side, stand all your vertical pieces and "glue" (actually it a solvent so it softens the plastic then bonds) of if you have any dividers then that would go first, (horizontal piece that spans between the verticals) then starting on one "end" start gluing them down, making sure you have a right angle jig to keep it nice and straight and some type of spacer for your baffle spacing. (is that clear - I think I just babbled)

more to come

[Wy Renegade]

Very nice write-up! Love all the pictures and detailed explaination. Somewhere I saw where people were using the acrylic chips to mix into man-made LR, helps with the coralline process.

[lemonyx]

The first end piece is on, the baffles

now the other end piece

The needles are only used for the "outside" or parameter of the tank or sump in this case.
Now what I have is a "U"(end pieces)with finger in between (baffles). Now is the time to ready the other "side" of the tank/sump.
The paper is removed and it's slid under, then the finished part is turned over and aligned onto the bottom piece. (I hope that is clear, as mud probably)
The first assembly with the end's and baffles are just turned upside down on to the next piece, lined up and "glued" on.

now the needles and shims are used to line up the "joints for gluing.
Now the "bottom of the sump.
So the finished "carcass" has a front, back and the baffles, just needs the bottom and then the top.

Bottom first

I use a needle every 6" and a shim if needed - all around the parameter of the sump. This take a little time and can mean bubbles or a nice clear seam.
When you are ready, apply the glue on one side, go back and pull the needles and push the shim in a little, you can see the solvent being squeezed out
so you have to stop or you'll get a "dry joint"
Repeat for the next 3 sides, add a little weight on top and let it dry


The top is next - has to be routed and have not decided on the shape of the opening as yet.

[lemonyx]

Been busy working on the top, planning what I will be using in-terms of equipment, where they will be placed and so on



the one on the far left is for the ATO and the water level is adjustable
the one up front is for the dosing lines and you've seen the others already

No pictures of the top being cutout or routed got lazy. The top is currently under the carcass of the sump getting ready for glue and then trimming (that means more cleanup)

more pix soon

[ReeferRob]

Awesome stuff Charles! LMK if you have any spares in regards to a 2 port probe holder!
Keep us posted on this killer project!

[lemonyx]

Awesome stuff Charles! LMK if you have any spares in regards to a 2 port probe holder!
Keep us posted on this killer project!

I can always make one up, not hard to do.

[lemonyx]

OK, the top, I didn't take any pix's of cutting it out and routing - got lazy I had to really think ahead and decided where i was gonna to have everything sit in the sump.

The probe holders, dosing line holders and the ATO float switch are on



But getting ahead of my self:
that's the top, sitting on the bottom getting shimmed up and ready for "gluing". Remember the needles are there to keep a constant gap all around the parameter of the tank, the razors (or shims) are to close up that gap so the needle slides in and out with a little friction. This will aid in "capillary" action and all you have to do is feed it and keep it ahead of you. Like you using the garden hose and hosing off the walkway of leafs, you start on one side and just keep the hose behind the leafs as the water moves them along.



Presto, the top of the sump with a 2 3/8" Euro brace

These two holes are for the skimmer pump silencer and filter (there's floss and charcoal in the tube)

The filter/silencer is this thing I made for my current sump and skimmer. Those Siccie (sp) pump draw a lot of air and are noisy.


just a 1 1/2" PVC with 2 end caps, one of them drilled and the other end fitted with a JG fitting for easy removal


or can be a convenient place for 2 cup holders and are toward the front of the sump
These 2 smaller holes are for wire management, the probes, heater cords and if enough room the dosing lines (might have to make another one for those)

and these are toward the back of the sump. Here you can see the chamfer on the edge - no sharp corners here.

It's a PITA to drain water from the sump and clean up the junk on the bottom, learned this from my current sump :nopity: so i will be adding this
I'm sure not too many reefers have a drain on their sumps, mine will

It'll just span the skimmer area and return area as the far right side is the fuge and don't want to bother that area.

Almost finished, just have to route the edges, chamfer the edges and I'm done. Corners on acrylic can be "sharp" very sharp I've cut myself many a time on a corner so now everything I do the corners are rounded over and edges chamfered with the router.